![]() The time to catch a leak is before it gets worse or causes the engine to overheat.Ī leaky head gasket or cracked head or block will cause the coolant level in the reservoir to gradually go down. That’s why checking the level of the coolant in the coolant reservoir regularly is so important. A seeping head gasket or even a hairline crack or porosity leak in a cylinder head or the engine block also can cause coolant to escape undetected.Įxternal coolant leaks will leave a piddle of antifreeze on the ground under a vehicle, but an internal coolant leak won’t leave any telltale puddles to alert the vehicle owner that their cooling system is losing coolant. Leaky hoses, radiators, water pumps and heater cores are common locations where coolant can escape. When changing out your existing coolant it is important to remove the old coolant and then flush the system thoroughly with fresh water.Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system or even inside the engine itself. You'll notice both of these coolants are deep pink in color. Yanmar markets its own coolant, and I would also recommend Texaco Extended Life Coolant. I would recommend an extended-life coolant designed for use in diesel engines. Being able to change the impeller on your own terms and while it is still intact is well worth the cost of the parts and the 20 minutes that it takes to perform. You need to retrieve all these little pieces or risk a cooling system blockage or restriction. When the impeller fails, parts of it may get into the heat exchanger or passages to it. This problem hardly ever happens at the dock, so you'll be resolving it in a seaway. If an impeller fails in use, it can be a complicated problem. I think it is wise to replace your impeller every year or two maybe every 100 to 200 hours. You will pump up the cap and it should release pressure at 13 pounds. Yanmar caps are 13 pound, meaning the cap opens at 13 pounds of pressure. While you have the test kit, you can also test the pressure cap. It is possible that you could have a leak in the pressure cap assembly or the overflow system. If you do not see a pressure drop, you may have a temperature-related leak (the engine only leaks when it is hot) or something vibration related. You should see a drip of coolant after a short time based on the leak you describe. I'd look closely around any hose connections and at the drain petcocks. If you saw pressure loss, I would pump the engine back up to 15 pounds or so and start to look for the leak. This does not directly give you the answer, but it will confirm that you have a leak somewhere in the cooling system. I'd leave the engine pressurized for a few hours, and I am confident that you'll see the gauge drop down in pressure after that amount of time. Start by attaching the pump to the engine and pump it up to maybe 15 pounds. The kit consists of a pressure pump and gauge, and adapters to attach the pump to the pressure cap or the engine itself. Any auto parts store can supply you with a cooling system pressure test kit, and many locations will allow you to use the tools free of charge. There are great test tools available to help you find your leak. Cooling problems can be frustrating, but the system overall is pretty simple. I have a couple ideas and some advice for you. Going forward I willnot checkevery service butchange the impeller every five years and keep a watchful eye on the engine alarms and exhaust raw water.ĭo you have any suggestions or ideas where my coolant may be leaking from? I will also change the impeller whether it needs it or not. ![]() The impeller is checked during every service and the engine has 1,100 hours on the original impeller. I replaced the pressure cap and tightened all the hose clamps. It has leaked coolant from somewhere on the left side at a rate of quarter-to half-teaspoon an hour, since the engine was new. I have a 2003 Jeanneau 45.2 powered by a 76-horsepower Yanmar. ![]()
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